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Writer's pictureJillian Conway

Beyond the Waterfalls of Maui

Updated: Jan 2, 2022

So many are drawn to Maui for its beauty - we see photos of the cascading waterfalls, lush green rainforests, and striking black sand beaches, and we know we need to experience it.


But beyond the beaches and waterfalls, Maui is home to a rich history of culture, food, and a wide variety of activities. Take some time to explore the history and culture of the Valley Isle - along with the waterfalls!



Makena Beach


Hawai is known for its beaches, and there are many to choose from. This one lands on my list because it is perfectly situated between two lava outcroppings - meaning it's protected from the trade winds. You'll have incredible views of Molokini and Kaho'olawe from your vantage point, and it's common to see dolphins in the area.


This is also one of Maui's largest beaches - coming in at 1.5 miles long and just over 100 feet wide. Here you can swim, snorkel, sunbathe, bodysurf, and body board, and there are lifeguards on duty - which I think is important!


To note: 1. The trees near the beach have thorns that are often in the ground near them - don't take your shoes off until you're well past the trees! 2. The ocean can be deceptively powerful in this area - pay attention to the signs and warnings, stay near the lifeguards, and don't turn your back to the waves!




Haleakala Sunrise or Sunset


Haleakala is an enormous shield volcano that forms over 75% of the island of Maui. Haleakala National Park is centered around the crater. The summit is accessible by a paved road so you can drive up to the summit, take part in sunrise bike tours, or combine it with a waterfall and rainforest hiking adventures.


There are those who insist you must see the sunrise, and Haleakala does translate to “House of the Sun,” but sunset has its perks - you don't have to get up before the sunrise, it tends to be calmer and quieter, and you get the benefit of stargazing once the sun has set. They're both stunningly beautiful. If you have the time - work them both into your trip!


Note: You need a reservation for a sunrise trip, but you do not need one for sunset. Also - if it's crowded or if you'll need to get out soon after sunset you can park in a smaller lot that you'll get to prior to the summit lot - it only adds on a ten minute walk, and you won't get stuck in traffic coming back down.




Upcountry Maui


Upcountry Maui, located on the higher elevations surrounding Haleakala offers a different side of the island - both literally and figuratively. As you leave the beaches behind you're greeted with rolling green hills, mist covered mountains, and the old stomping grounds of the Hawaiian cowboy culture. In the 19th century King Kamehameha III invited cowboys from California to teach the islanders to wrangle cattle. Those that accepted the King's invitation added a different dimension to the culture that already existed on the island, and here is where it is most prevalent today.


In the town of Kula you can tour the Hawaii Sea Spirits Organic Farm and Distillery (they produce Ocean Vodka), the Alii Kula Lavender Farm, the Shim Coffee and Protea Farm (where you can pick coffee beans), and tour and stop for a picnic at the Kula Botanical Gardens.



Stop in Makawao, a small town located on the mid-slopes of Haleakala, and experience old world Hawaii in this cowboy town/art community. The center of town has 20 or so stores - an eclectic combination of small shops, restaurants, and art galleries. It's a town of working artists - you can watch glassblowers, wood sculptors, and painters in action. If you want to take a class you can stop by the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center for a class and free gallery tours. If you're in town on July 4th you can see the annual Makawao Rodeo with barrel racing, bronco riding, and other traditional rodeo competition activities. If you get there early enough in the day you can stop at T. Komoda Store - a bakery first opened in 1916 by Takezo Komoda, a Japanese plantation worker. Be prepared for a long line - but you do need to get there early because once they're sold out they close up for the day.


(Note that Upcountry towns are a higher elevation than the rest of the island - have a jacket with you - especially if you plan to be out at there at night).


Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Tor Johnson Hawaii Tourism Authority (HTA) / Max Wanger


The Road to Hana


The winding road to Hana is one of Hawaii's most famous drives. It's only 52 miles long, but it has 620 curves (many of them hairpin turns), and 59 bridges - some that are one lane only. The ride can take anywhere from 2-4 hours (or more) depending on how often you stop. You'll see sweeping vistas, lush rainforests, cascading waterfalls, and jagged cliff seascapes. Book a private tour for this one - whoever is driving can't take their eyes off the road - so they miss out on the dramatic beauty around them. This drive is all about the journey, but once you reach Hana you're also treated to a beautiful area of East Maui.




Wai'Anapanapa State Park



Hana’s Wai'Anapanapa State Park is home to one of Hawaii's famous black sand beaches, also known as Pa'iloa Beach. The area is surrounded by green rainforest, and its contrasting colors are stunning. You can walk the coastline and maybe even fish with the locals if you'd like. It's NOT a great beach for swimming due to its steep drop off, and tendency towards rip currents.


Note: As of this writing you do need reservations for this beach - this may change as so many things are in flux right now.





Molokini Snorkeling


The small, crescent shaped crater and Marine Life Conservation District is an incredible snorkeling opportunity. It's shape and depth create calm waters allowing terrific visibility, and makes it accessible to those less experienced. The best time to go is in the early morning hours when the the water is at its calmest. There are multiple departure options, but if you depart from Makena you'll make the trip in around 3 hours as opposed to the potential 6 hours of other departure points. This helps if you're concerned about getting sea sick (I always have to think about that), and it also might get you there earlier than other tourists coming from further departure points. The downside is getting up ridiculously early, but if you're coming in from the US and you book this excursion near the start of your vacation the jet lag will work in your favor.


If you travel between December and April you'll up your chances of seeing a whale in the distance - just another incredible site on an average day in Hawaii.


Note: If you're not up for the boat ride out to Molokini and/or you want great snorkeling with less of a time commitment - Napili Bay is another option. You can drive North from Kahului or Lahaina, toward Kapalua, and go from there.




Lahaina


Lahaina is an oceanfront town in West Maui. It's a walkable area with much to see in the way of Hawaiian history. Lahaina was a whaling port in the 1800's, the royal capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom, and was also a sugar plantation town which drew workers from around the world. You'll find plenty of shops and restaurants to explore, and you can also take a free walking tour of the town that will take you by important historic and cultural sites and attractions such as the Old Courthouse, Old Lahaina Fort ruins, and the largest banyan tree in the United States - originally planted near the courthouse at Lahaina harbor in 1873 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the first Protestant mission in the town. It has grown to include 16 additional trunks spread out over close to an acre of land.


Note that Lahaina is more of a residential area than a tourist one - so it's a nice break and something different to do and see.




Looking for an overview of the Hawaiian islands? Check out my blog post here: The Hawaiian Islands: Escape to Paradise.


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