Edinburgh is known for many things, but two of my favorite bits of trivia are: the National Animal of Scotland is the unicorn, and that Edinburgh holds the first UNESCO designation as a City of Literature. I think you could build your entire itinerary around those two things, but because most people I know want a bit more variety in their travel, here is a list of can't miss experiences for your FIRST time in Edinburgh.
What's First? Walk the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile, a series of streets that runs between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, is a collection of streets that is almost exactly a mile, and makes up the main area of the Old Town of the city.
It is the busiest tourist street in the area - made up of shops, restaurants, and larger attractions such as the variety of museums that offer insight into the history of Edinburgh. There is the John Knox house which is part of the Scottish Storytelling Center, The Museum of Edinburgh, The People's Story Museum, and the Museum of Childhood - just to name a few! (We'll tackle the multiple museums in an upcoming post!)
The thoroughfare is alive with music, shopping, eating, and street performers. Just walking down the street is an experience in and of itself.
Edinburgh Castle
It's impossible to visit Edinburgh for the first time without a visit to Edinburgh Castle. I'm fairly certain that if you try to skip it someone may actually kick you out of the country. The castle, at the head of the Royal Mile, was strategically built on Castle Rock, and looms over the city like...well, exactly like you would expect a castle to loom.
The history of the castle is long and storied, spanning hundreds of years, the reigns of kings and queens, and battles fiercely won and lost. There is plenty to keep you busy around the grounds.
You can visit St. Margaret's Chapel named after Queen Margaret (who was later made a saint). She died there in 1093, and the chapel built in her honor by her son, King David I, is Edinburgh’s oldest building. St Margaret’s Chapel still hosts weddings and christenings today.
The Honours of Scotland are the oldest crown jewels in Britain. Made of gold, silver and precious gems, they were created in Scotland and Italy during the reigns of James IV and James V. The crown, sceptre and sword of state were first used together for the coronation of a monarch in 1543, when Mary Queen of Scots came to the throne. The iconic Stone of Destiny, used for centuries to inaugurate monarchs, is also on display in the Crown Room.
The Queen's Embroideries
The original Marian Hanging was made by Mary Queen of Scots during her 19 years of house arrest at the orders of Elizabeth the 1st. During this time Mary became friends with Bess of Hardwick - the wife of the man charged with guarding Mary. They worked together to complete over 100 embroidered panels - most depicting natural history and mythology. Some of the panels, such as Mary's Phoenix panel, show how Mary was able to express herself through this project during a time when she was under constant surveillance. The Phoenix panel was based on the popular legend of the time - that the bird cannot die as it is able to regenerate itself by bursting into flames and birthing a new phoenix. The legend was actually adopted by Mary's mother, Mary De Guide, as her emblem. After Mary's death her panels were assembled onto green velvet wall hangings. The originals are at the Oxburgh hall (National Trust property), but you can view perfect replicas displayed in the Royal Apartments in the castle - used by Mary Queen of Scots.
Mons Meg and the One O'Clock Gun
Mons Meg, named for the Belgian town in which it was made, was one of the greatest medieval cannons ever created, and was given to King James II in 1457. It was retired for some time after James II died in 1460 when another of his cannons exploded during the siege of Roxburghe Castle. The cannon was brought back into action by King James IV, but retired again in 1550 only to be brought out in 1558 when Mary, Queen of Scots was married. At that time the Mons Meg fired over the city in celebration - the cannon landing in what is now the Royal Botanic Garden. However, the barrel didn't burst until 1681! In 1829 the cannon was brought to Castle Rock and now sits outside St. Margaret's Chapel.
You'll also see the One O'Clock Gun which is still fired every day at...you guessed it - 1:00 PM. This dates back to 1861, when businessman John Hewitt brought the idea to Edinburgh from Paris.
The Great Hall
The Great Hall, completed in 1511 for King James IV, hosted banquets and state events. Unfortunately, the king didn't have much time to enjoy the addition to the castle, as he died at the Battle of Flodden in 1513 - fighting English forces sent by his brother-in-law, King Henry VIII of England.
Above the door to the Royal Palace are the gilded initials MAH – for Mary Queen of Scots and her second husband Henry Stewart, Lord Darnley. Mary gave birth to James VI in the Royal Palace in 1566. He became king of Scotland at 13 months old and united the crowns of Scotland and England in 1603.
You can wander the ground on your own and also take a guided tour. This is one where you may want to schedule a tour - the guides have lots of knowledge and share tidbits and trivia you may otherwise miss!
The Closes of the Royal Mile
One of the best things to do as you make your way down the street is to duck into the Closes (small alleyways leading off of a main street) as you pass them. The Royal Mile is full of them, and they often lead you to secret gardens, interesting views, or occasionally, an attraction.
(Note that some are private - so if you see a gate or a sign asking you to keep out - turn around, and make your way back to Main Street).
Mary King's Close
One famous Close is Mary King's Close - and this is a tour you should do (and must book in advance). This hour-long tour takes you under the streets of Edinburgh and back to the 17th century - where you'll experience the people and places who lived there. There are plenty of myths and mysteries of Mary King's Close - all hidden beneath perhaps the busiest street in Edinburgh. Underground you'll take a tour through a labyrinth of streets, homes, and passageways. It's the only truly preserved 17th century street in Edinburgh, and you'll be privy to the stories of the people who lived, worked, and died there.
Gladstone's Land
Gladstone's Land, one of the oldest buildings on the Royal Mile, It was a tenement building that housed wealthy residents and was also a commercial property. You can still view the hand-painted Renaissance era interiors that date from the 1620's. By the mid 1800's only poor residents remained in Old Town, and the building fell into disrepair. It wasn't until the National Trust of Scotland obtained it in 1934 that it began to be repaired. You might not be able to tell from the photo, but in addition to seeing how the wealthy lived so long ago, you'll also hear their tales of murder, scandal, and betrayal.
Arthur's Seat
I'm not a big one for hiking, but I think even for me this one is worth it. To be honest, those of you who are actually into hiking probably wouldn't even count this as a hike (although parts of the path are rocky and uneven - so plan footwear accordingly). You might say it's more of a leisurely walk. Holyrood Park, a 640 acre Royal Park adjacent to Holyrood Palace, is a short walk off of the Royal Mile. The park's highest point is Arthur's Seat, which is actually an ancient volcano. It stands at 823 feet above sea level and offers a gorgeous panoramic view of all of Edinburgh. If you start your walk at Holyrood Palace you should be to Arthur's Seat within an hour.
Legend has it that it is named for King Arthur and that this hill was once Camelot. Some choose to dismiss it, but I choose to be a believer. It's truly an incredible place to stand - archaeologists recently uncovered the walls of a prehistoric hill fort first inhabited by the Votadini, an ancient people who ruled South East Scotland during the Iron Age, almost 3,000 years ago.
Holyrood Palace
The Palace of Holyroodhouse, is The Queen's official residence in Edinburgh and the home of Scottish royal history. It is open throughout the year and stands at the end of the Royal Mile. Among the famous inhabitants are Mary Queen of Scots (she lived there from 1561-1567).
You can also visit the palace gardens and the remains of the 12th century Holyrood Abbey.
These are simply some of the first highlights you'll want to consider - there is truly so much to explore. If you're curious about a trip out of the city to see the birthplace of the author of Peter Pan you can check out our post on that here.
Wondering how unicorns fit in to all this? We'll soon be exploring the myths and legends of Scotland as well. Stay tuned!
I'm so happy to be helping you with this trip - you're going to have such a great time!
LOVED reading this post- it’s getting me excited for all the great things for my trip! So glad you booked it!